12/17/2023 0 Comments Innis sunscreen cosdna![]() The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while THDA penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. ![]() We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% THDA. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. ![]() Third, THDA seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate, and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. With this context in mind let's see what THDA might be able to do. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of THDA, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, aka Uvinul A Plus, a new generation sunscreen for UVA protection.Ethylhexyl Triazone, aka Uvinul T 150, another new generation sunscreen agent with super-high UVB protection.Tris-Biphenyl Triazine, aka Tinosorb A2B, the newest addition to the Tinosorb family that protects strongly in an in-between wavelength that most other filters miss.Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, aka Tinosorb M, the good buddy of our current molecule Tinosorb S.Overall, we think Trinosorb S is one of the best sunscreen options available today.Īre you into sunscreen agents? We have shiny explanations (along with product lists) about others as well: Regarding Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine side effects, we have good news here as well: it has a great safety profile and unlike a couple of other chemical sunscreens, Trinosorb S (and M) does not show estrogenic activity. This is good news for a sunscreen agent as it needs to be on the surface of the skin to do its job properly. It is an oil-soluble, slightly yellowish powder that is not absorbed into the skin too much. It's a new generation sunscreen agent that was specifically designed for high SPF and good UVA protection and based on a 2007 study that compared 18 sunscreen agents available in the EU it really had the best SPF protection (they used the highest concentration allowed by EU regulations from each 18 sunscreens and Trinosorb S gave an SPF 20 all by itself). Sodium Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate CopolymerĪmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer ![]() Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoateīis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine ![]()
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